- Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania, Italy Greco di Tufo sparkling, NV
- Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania, Italy, Greco di Tufo, 2012
The weather in Hong Kong has been pretty gloomy of late so to cheer myself up I’ve been thinking of all those chilled wines I intend to enjoy as I attempt to manage the inevitable heat and humidity that is coming…
Recently I’ve tasted a couple of wines from the producer Feudi di San Gregorio in Campania, southern Italy. Riccardo Cotarella, winemaking consultant at Feudi di San Gregorio and Anselme Selosse of the renown Selosse Champagne teamed up to produce a range of sparkling wines made using the traditional method employed for making champagne but in this case using Italian grapes. My first taste was a rosé made from Aglianico grapes and to be honest the DUBL Aglianico left me pretty ambivalent – very dry, an overabundance of cherry flavours and rather prickly bubbles which left me rather dubious about the second bottle I had in the fridge, the DUBL Greco … how wrong I was!
Map Source: Wine Folly
The DUBL Greco is a completely different wine. An intoxicating nose of heady white flowers alongside aromas of apples and peach as well as rich notes of butter. These aromas continued through to the palate and were joined by a good dose of mineral flavours on the finish. With M. Selosse involved in the production of this wine it is perhaps no surprise to find some oxidative aromas and flavours for which his own champagne is known, so if that isn’t to your liking you may not enjoy this sparkling as much as I did. I drank the DUBL Greco as an aperitif served with roasted almonds tossed in paprika and salt. The combination worked – the salt nicely balanced the high acidity of the wine leaving notes of baked apples or tarte tatin to settle on the palate. Those prickly bubbles appear again in this wine and although not my preference it didn’t stop me refilling my glass!
As it turned out I found, tucked away in our wine fridge, a still wine made from that same grape, Greco, and made by the same producer – an opportunity to compare the two styles that was too good to pass up. The still Greco di Tufo has lovely aromas of melon, the subtlest hint of grilled pineapple, peach, lemon and white flowers reminding me of almond blossoms and jasmine. As with the sparkling version the flavours flowed through to the palate and again finished with a distinctive mineral sensation, one that made me think of the smell of hot stones that have just been rained on. The wine has a good balance of tropical and citrus notes that lead to a good mineral finish making it another winner for me.
Greco is an ancient grape produced in the south of Italy from at least 2,500 years ago, after being brought to Italy from Greece.  While the word Greco refers to the grape variety, Tufo refers to the village around which much Greco di Tufo is grown. The name of the village is in reference to the name of the tufaceous soil of the region, which is a type of yellowish calcareous and clay soil. Typically Greco is used to produce a still dry wine although both sparkling, as we have already seen, and sweet wines called Greco di Bianco are also made.
So with a few bottles from Feudi di San Gregorio in the fridge, maybe the heat and humidity will be just that little bit more bearable …
Related Happy Wine Woman posts – Italy
Where can you get these wines?
Feudi di San Gregorio distribution
1.Clarke, Oz & Rand, Margaret. Grapes & Wines. New York: Sterling Epicure, 2012. Page 112.
One thought on “Greco di Tufo; still or sparkling? Or … what exactly is that?”
Pls note that Greco and Greco di Bianco are two distinctive vine varietes, and this way are listed in the official Italian Catalogue of the Vine Varietes, set up and periodically updated by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture. The sweet Greco di Bianco is not produced in Campania (the region of the city of Naples), but in Calabria (practically the the heel of the Italian peninsula).