Where the Rhine meets the Yarra – Georg Breuer and CellarHand Wines

Wines Tasted

1. 2012 Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim Estate, Riesling
2. 2013 Georg Breuer, Terra Montosa, Riesling
3. 2009 Georg Breuer, Berg Roseneck, Riesling
4. 2013 Georg Breuer, Berg Schlossberg, Riesling (Magnum)
5. 2014 Georg Breuer, Rheingau, Riesling Auslese

The setting was a picture perfect day in Melbourne along the banks of the Yarra River. Local importer and distributor CellarHand Wines selected the Arbory Bar & Eatery to showcase the latest releases from German Riesling producer Georg Breuer. Representing her family’s business at this Rhine meets the Yarra event was the highly personable Theresa Breuer.

The Breuer family hold a special place in the Rheingau where the winery is based for it is here that the move to produce a drier style of Riesling was initiated by Theresa’s father, the late Bernard Breuer together with Graf Matuschka-Greiffenclau and this represents a significant departure from the dominant style at the time. [1] The drive for this change to the style of wine was to produce wines that were better matched to modern cuisine and, no doubt, to appeal to a broader range of palates.

The Rheingau wine region of Germany is located on the northern banks of the Rhine river and spans east and west of the city of Wiesbaden. The famous Geisenheim Institute, an internationally renown centre for viticultural research, is also found in this region. The reputation of Riesling from this region belies the fact that it is a comparatively small production region for the country. And although Pinot Noir is also planted in this area it is the quality of the Rieslings from Rheingau that means these wines are highly sought after.

Images: CellarHand Wines

German Riesling is something of an enigma for all but the most dedicated of wine geeks. With its elongated titles, unfathomable classification system and a selection of quite possibly the most difficult words to pronounce it can be intimidating but it is worth exploring further – the rewards are limitless. And fortunately Georg Breuer is blessed not only with high quality wines but with a name that is not too difficult to pronounce, making asking for a bottle or a glass all the more manageable.

All of the wines tasted ranged from 11 – 11.5% abv, with the exception of the Auslese which came in at 8.5%. All exhibited a very appealing purity of fruit, which was nicely balanced by the refreshing acidity levels alongside a good texture and weight on the palate. With the exception of the Estate Riesling, which is produced for drinking early, these wines can be enjoyed now or in a significant number of years to come making them an excellent addition to the cellar.

Happy Drinking!

Tasting Notes

2012 Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim Estate, Riesling

A characteristic Riesling nose with bright citrus fruit and stone fruit, reminding me of fuzzy peach skin alongside subtle notes of lanolin. On the palate a burst of zingy fresh fruits such as lime, green apple and white peach. The acidity is refreshing and the flavours linger for a good finish. Suggested food matches include salmon gravlax, sole or fresh cheeses.

2013 Georg Breuer, Terra Montosa, Riesling

A riper nose compared with the Rüdesheim Estate Riesling showing aromas more towards the stone fruit and floral spectrum. On the palate the weight is slightly fuller than the first wine with flavours of yellow citrus such as lemon and ruby grapefruit. The floral notes come through on the palate as subtle notes of honeysuckle and jasmine. The acidity here refreshes the palate and provides good balance to the riper fruit notes. Food pairing suggestions again focus on fish such as salmon, fresh cheese or a light summer pasta with ricotta, mint and lemon.

2009 Georg Breuer, Berg Roseneck, Riesling

Very delicate notes of maturity such as kerosene and honey starting to peak through together with stone and tropical fruit notes. The fruit follows through on the palate freshened by crisp lime and green apple notes with a mineral backbone suggesting chalk. The wine has a delicious pithy quality to it making me instantly think of the food I might enjoy with it; crostinis with trout row and lemon cream, ripe cheeses or sushi.

This, and the Berg Schlossberg, represents two of four Grand Cru wines from Georg Breuer – the other two being the Berg Rottland, also from village of Rüdesheim and the Nonnenberg from village of Rauenthal.

2013 Georg Breuer, Berg Schlossberg, Riesling (Magnum)

Served from a Magnum the heady aromas of blossom with stone and citrus fruit tumbled out of the glass amongst honeysuckle and jasmine flowers, citrus and tropical fruits – all of which could be found on the palate. The flavours were expertly interwoven, existing in perfect harmony – really, it was that good! The acidity was crisp with notes of fresh lime and mineral chalkiness as lingering flavours on a long finish. My favourite food suggestion is found on the Georg Breuer website – “a seafood platter, good company and your favourite music.”

2014 Georg Breuer, Rheingau, Riesling Auslese

This wine is made from individually selected extra-ripe bunches of grapes which adds an attractive sweetness to the wine. A very aromatic example, the wine showed orange blossom, stone fruit such as apricot and peach, honeysuckle and acacia flowers and yellow citrus fruit. The acidity is high giving a sense of delicacy to the structure and leaving the palate refreshed and ready for the next sip. The chalk notes on the palate persist on a very long finish. Food pairing suggestions include desserts such as Sabayon, fresh fruit or lighter cheeses.

1. Jancis Robinson Purple Pages, Oxford Companion to Wine: Rheingau